All of the eating:
Roscioli is one of the best restaurants and is a favorite with locals too. Very un-pretentious, great service. You walk in and there are cases in the front, and it almost looks like more of a market. They specialize in a few things: highest quality mozzarella and charcuterie that you order a la carte, marinated tomatoes that are outstanding (and they sell bottled), and they are known for having the best Cacio e Pepe and Carbonara pasta dishes in all of Rome. Decadent but worth it. Lovely meal. You may want a reservation. http://www.salume riaroscioli.com
Dal Bolognese is a very nice restaurant. You get the sense that its a bit more dressy, but still casual and popular with locals. Wonderful Bolognese obviously, and their nut ice cream dessert is outrageous.
Pizzarium Bonci is a bit off the beaten (very beaten) tourist path, but so worth checking out. You can a slice of pizza and a slice of real Rome. This is where the locals eat, and they will be surprised that you've found it. Very good slices of pizza with awesome toppings.
Touristy Stuff:
Get a guided walking tour of the Colosseum and Roman Forum, just so that you don't have to wait in line for tickets. Or book your tickets ahead of time. Its a crazy line for tickets and to go through security. You skip security if you buy through a tour. Don't really eat at any of the places near there, total tourist traps, not good food.
The Hop on Hop off bus in Rome isn't a bad way to see things. But mostly recommend walking around at night. Everything is open late, and is less crowded, and its much less hot.
If you just do one thing:
Eat at Roscioli. There's two ways to heaven in this town. One has super long lines, and one is heaven in a bowl of pasta. So, I say, skip the Vatican, and book a table instead.
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